Kasubi Tombs, a piece of history, very much alive

sunrise

Finally I returned to Africa. This great continent is like a magnet for me and I wish to return to its heat, its coolness, its deserts, its green jungles and savannahs. Its great animals are in my dreams, Kilimanjaro is a still unreached goal and its cities make me curious and its people make me happy.

Tea plantation

Tea plantation

tomatos

Selling tomatos, yes we bought a few

I was on a trip to Masai Mara National Park and gorillas in Uganda and few things there between. I will write about the whole trip later. One of th stops we made on the way, during the trip was Kampala and in Kampala the Kasubi Tombs of kings of Buganda. That’s right, Buganda. Buganda is a subnational kingdom within Uganda. On the way to Kampala we saw wonderful sunrise, we saw people transporting bananaas to a market on their bikes. We passed tea plantations, lots of them.In the market they were picked up by a truck. We saw small shop selling tomatos and pineapples. We stop at a place like that, where we got some pineapples for the lunch. Jany wanted to get two or three tomaos, he got about five kilos, maybe more.

banana transport

Banana transport . This looks heavy.

banana transport

Banana transport version 2.0.

In Kampala we stayed there in a noisy camping, called Red Chili. The camping site was OK, there was wireless internet in the bar and a pool. But the place was crowded with people that wanted to party, so it was noisy and maybe not so good if you wanted to sleep. Thanks heaven for earplugs.

entering Kasubi Tombs

Entering the Kasubi Tombs

Kampala is the capital of Uganda. It’s a big city, a bit chaotic, ugly and charming at the same time. We didn’t spend so much time there, but enough to go to a coffee shop and a market. Both were better than good. Ugandan coffee is truly nice and the market had some really nice crafts. I bought a mask for my collection and a comb.

Kasubi Tombs

Kasubi Tombs

We travelled by minibuses, called matatu, together with locals. It was an interesting experience, in a good way. We travelled through poor neighborhoods and better ones.  The poorer ones were packed with sheds, people, vibrant and full with life. The poverty was obvious and painful, children looking in garbage, dogs running around. It was some sort of organized chaos. We were told that there are about three million people in Kampala plus those living in that kind of places. There were butcheries with meat hanging outside, there were stuff everywhere, the streets were narrow and dusty.

Kasubi Tombs

Kasubi Tombs, roof inside one of the buildings

And then we went up on a hill to Tombs of Buganda Kings at Kasubi. This is the site of the burial grounds for four kabakas (kings of Buganda), and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001. On 16 March 2010, some of the major buildings there were almost completely destroyed by a fire, the cause of which is under investigation. The site id being rebuilt.

Kasubi Tombs

Kasubi Tombs, the yard with some houses

Our gouide told us history of this amazing place, history of the kingdom of Buganda and history of Uganda. He showed us pictures of the kings. The kabakas buried at the site were:

  • Muteesa I (1835–1884)
  • Mwanga II (1867–1903)
  • Daudi Chwa II (1896–1939)
  • Sir Edward Muteesa II (1924–1969).

Suddenly we realized how little we actually know about recent history of this huge continent and this country. O rguide told us also about Idi Amin, how’s he got the power, the pretty good start and how monstruos he became. The history very much alive.

Kasubi Tombs

Kasubi Tombs, view from the top of the hill

We walked out in the area and looked at the tombs, looked at the houses and were told that desendants of the kings and their wives still live here. The heritage site is very much alive. We saw a women in great African dress with vibrant colors walk across the courtyard, we saw a guy with a goat, we saw children.Even if it is a museum, it still is home of people. The view from the hill was of the entire Kampala. The sunsets must be magnificent from here.

Kasubi Tombs

Kasubi Tombs, woman, maybe she lives there?

After visiting the tombs we went back into the city for some lunch. We found a place on top of a building with a pretty nice view of the city, sat down and ordered sandwiches. The waiter came back few minutes lter telling us that they don’t have sandwiches, only goat. Never had a goat in my life, but this was too strange situation to try it. But the guys in our group decided for goat anyways. Well, the story doesn’t end here. After a while the waiter came back with a womderful question: “Do you want a dry or wet goat?” The difference was that both were stew, but one was cooked with veggies, the other without. I tried the wet goat from Jany’s plate and it was OK. We survived the lunch, one experience richer.

sunrise

Sunrise in Uganda

Kampala is a city, maybe a little charming, but still a city with traffuc, dust and lots of things happening, but not to much nature to enjoy. If you pass it, go visit the tombs. The site (take a look at the link) is worth it. How many globes? This is hard. Visually, maybe three, the history told by the guide: five, view from the hill: four or five. My grade is four globes out of five.

GlobeGlobeGlobeGlobe

//Monika

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41 thoughts on “Kasubi Tombs, a piece of history, very much alive

  1. trumpettune says:

    this is a lovely blog i like all the pictures they are really interesting i am definitely liking this blog please post more pictures. would you mind taking a look at my blog if not don’t worry

  2. innamazing says:

    Lovely post. So culturally embedded.

  3. lafeayette says:

    Reblogged this on aroundtheworldwithelle and commented:
    I came across this blog and found it interesting. I know a lot of us Americans are pretty much out of touch with the rest of the world, especially third world countries. We are so comsumed with materialistci stuff here and “keeping up with the Joneses” that we forget how the rest of the world lives.
    I even have friends that say they would NEVER visit Africa and places similar and why would I want to go there? I love to travel and see the the world, learn about different cultures and appreciate the city where I live when I come home. This article I found to be amazing, because it shows daily life in Uganda. I definitely recommend this article and blog, even if you are only into high-end traveling and enjoying your margarita in a 5 star hotel by the beach.

    • minqan says:

      Thanks! I appreciate it. I love travelling, not always in the most conveniet places around the world and then I discover some pretty amazing stuff. I’ve got many friends here in Sweden, who don’t understand it and never go to hotels with less than four stars. 🙂

  4. 3arn0wl says:

    You’re right about Ugandan coffee! 😀

    Pity you didn’t go to Sam’s for food – one of the best curry houses in the world ime.

    Looking forward to hearing much more of your East African fest! 😀

  5. shonadaowna says:

    The great continent breathes through your pen.

  6. love the pics, they really tell a story ! and congrats on being “freshly pressed” 🙂

    do you mind checking out my blog? its new and id love your feedback !
    Thanks so much and really enjoying reading your posts

  7. beautiful images, really capture the spirit. thank you!

  8. meniez says:

    Can i tell you what? i am Ugandan and i live just a few kilometers out of town. The tombs are just one of a great asset that the country has. Thanks for visiting and tell others about the beauty of visiting. I will be happy to see some more posts about Uganda from you

  9. Reblogged this on écosmos and commented:
    quand le cosmique blurp

  10. Rem Lee says:

    I used to complain about life here in Manila until I saw Africa

  11. rizalID says:

    the tradtional village.., so beatifully.

  12. Kim Silerio says:

    nice documentation of your travel.. 😀

  13. Floyda Foley says:

    Very interesting! Great post..

  14. wow…those images are incredible. i’m so jealous of everyone that’s travelling and having adventures. i know my time will come, i’m just not financially secure enough to do so right now. but wow, your images gave me the itch!! thanks for sharing!

  15. chilejaye says:

    Amazing! Thanks for sharing!

  16. FindTripInfo says:

    A very honest post of real Africa. Thank you for a great blog post.

  17. Faby says:

    I’ve just discovered your great blog. Thanks for sharing with us your adventures !

  18. […] OK. It’s hot, dusty and not so green, but somehow charming anyways. We went to Kasubi Tombs (another post about that), we were served “wet goat” on a roof and took local transport, a motoke,we saw real people in […]

  19. […] we visited Kenya and Uganda. We saw several World Heritage sites, like Rift Valley Lake system, Kasubi Tombs in Uganda and Bwindi Impenetrable forest. It was both nature and  culture, gorillas, hippos and […]

  20. […] ones. We’ve written about plans and wishes, the blog appeared on freshly pressed once (Kasubi Tombs). and it has got many […]

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